Desert belle Zuhair Murad Haute Couture F/W 2019-2020
Diala Aschkar, Art Director at Orient Palms, France

Desert belle

Zuhair Murad Haute Couture F/W 2019-2020

For his Fall-Winter 2019 Haute Couture collection, Zuhair Murad was inspired by a recent trip to Morocco where a whirlwind of elements — traditional carpets motifs, djellabas in markets, turbans, women’s caftans — nurtured his imagination and creativity. The result is a lavish procession of silk, satin or taffeta garments, sumptuously beaded with motifs resembling traditional tribal tattoos, in warm desert tones of gold, brick, orange, amber, amaranth and green. Jewlery-like belts and headbands completed this North African theme.

Floor-sweeping skirts, capes and sleeves elongated the silhouettes and added glamour and theatricality as they trailed behind the models.

One of the originalities of the collection is that Murad infused it with a Saint Laurent seventies’ feel, using ostrich feathers and headbands. Indian elements like the Paisley motif added to the bohemian chic touch. On another note, the feather-trimmed outfits oozed old Hollywood glam.

The image features a group of models standing in a line outside a grand building. They are all dressed in a variety of glamorous, high-fashion gowns, showcasing an array of colors, textures, and intricate designs. The styles range from elegant and flowing to bold and structured. The setting includes large, arched windows that frame the background, and the overall scene conveys a sense of luxury and sophistication. The models exhibit diverse looks, with different hairstyles and accessories, enhancing the fashionable theme.

The show started with a Coachella-mood succession: First, a mini dress with bell sleeves and a plunging neckline with a Persian motif, paired with boots that completed the rock style. Then, a two-piece ensemble featuring a tribal embroidery, and a long one-shoulder black dress with orange and magenta paisley printed details.

  • The image shows a model walking down a runway. She is wearing a colorful, patterned dress with a deep neckline and bell sleeves, featuring intricate designs in shades of red, gold, and purple. The dress has a bohemian vibe. The model accessorizes with a matching headband and statement jewelry around her neck. The runway is adorned with patterned flooring, adding to the overall vibrant atmosphere of the scene.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image shows a model walking down a runway. She is wearing a stylish outfit consisting of a patterned, fitted blazer and matching pants adorned with intricate designs. The blazer has a mix of colors and textures, adding richness to the look. The model also sports a black blouse underneath and a headscarf, completing the ensemble. Her footwear consists of strappy heels. The runway has a vibrant, patterned background, enhancing the fashion showcase atmosphere.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a runway model wearing a striking black gown with a vibrant, flowing design. The dress is one-shouldered and features a high slit, allowing for movement and showcasing the model's legs. The fabric has intricate patterns in rich colors that add depth to the outfit. The model's hair is styled elegantly, and she wears a black headband. The runway setting includes blurred figures in the background, indicating an audience at a fashion show. The overall atmosphere is high-fashion and stylish.
    ©ImaxTree

These Magenta and Burgundy short dresses with feather-trimmed sleeves and tribal and geometric styled beading distill a more dressed-up feel.

  • The image shows a model walking down a runway wearing a striking dress that features a vibrant red and pink color scheme. The dress is intricately designed with embellishments, including sequins and feathers, particularly at the hem. The model has a sleek hairstyle and is showcasing the outfit confidently. In the background, there are spectators, some of whom are wearing elegant attire, suggesting a high-fashion event. The overall atmosphere is glamorous and sophisticated, typical of a fashion show.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway in a striking red dress. The dress is intricately designed with embellishments and sequins, giving it a glamorous and ornate look. It has a fitted bodice with sheer fabric and detailed patterns, complemented by long, feathery sleeves. The model is accessorized with a decorative belt at the waist and matching red sandals. In the background, other elegant dresses in various colors and styles can be seen, suggesting a high-fashion environment, likely during a runway show. The overall atmosphere conveys sophistication and luxury.
    ©ImaxTree

Models seemed like tattooed mermaids in these shear figure-hugging, floor-length dresses, embroidered with geometric or Persian motifs.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing a stunning black dress. The dress is made of sheer fabric adorned with intricate lace detailing and embroidery, which creates a visually striking pattern. It has a form-fitting silhouette and off-the-shoulder sleeves, accentuating the model's figure. A wide sash cinches at the waist, enhancing the dress's elegance. In the background, other models can be seen wearing glamorous outfits, indicating a fashion show setting. The overall ambiance is sophisticated and high-fashion.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing an elegant gown. The dress is form-fitting and intricately designed with a combination of dark fabric and vibrant embellishments. It has long sleeves and a deep neckline, adding to its sophisticated look. The gown is adorned with intricate patterns and beadwork that create a striking visual effect. The runway is set in a stylish location, with an audience in the background, indicating a high-fashion event.
    ©ImaxTree

Murad excelled in creating different cape designs to accompany the outfits as this full chiffon orange dress with a single crossover strap and asymmetric train, this black dress featuring a key-hole neck, or this sleeveless chiffon, emerald dress featuring lace openings rendering a "nightgown effect", accompanied by a long cape embellished with feathers and embroidery.

  • The image features a model walking on a runway, showcasing a striking orange gown. The dress is elegantly draped, with one shoulder exposed and a flowing cape-like addition that adds drama to the look. The fabric appears lightweight and sheer, creating a soft, ethereal effect. The model has long, flowing hair and a confident expression as she walks, while blurred figures in glamorous outfits are visible in the background, indicating a high-fashion setting. The overall atmosphere conveys sophistication and artistry.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing an elegant outfit. She is wearing a stunning black ensemble that includes a form-fitting jumpsuit adorned with intricate beadwork and embellishments, giving it a dazzling effect. The jumpsuit is complemented by a flowing black cape that enhances the overall dramatic effect of the look. The runway setting has a vibrant, patterned floor, and the audience is visible in the background, adding to the event's glamorous atmosphere. The model's long hair falls gracefully, and her pose conveys confidence and poise.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image depicts a model walking down a runway during a fashion show. She is wearing an elegant, sheer green gown that features intricate lace and embroidery details. The dress has long sleeves and a deep neckline, complemented by a matching embellished belt at the waist. The setting appears to be a vibrant and stylish venue, with an audience visible in the background, showcasing a variety of fashionable attendees. The overall atmosphere conveys high fashion and sophistication.
    ©ImaxTree

The following are two different versions of stunning "Burgundy from head to toe" looks, in chiffon or velvet, both having capes, one with a paisley motif beading, and the second as an off-the-shoulders cape.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway during a fashion show. She is wearing a stunning burgundy gown that has a high slit, showcasing a glamorous style. The gown is complemented by an elegant cape adorned with embellishments, adding drama to her look. The runway backdrop includes an audience, with various attendees seated and watching the presentation. The setting appears to be richly decorated, enhancing the overall luxurious atmosphere of the event.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing an elegant red gown. The dress is made of luxurious velvet fabric and has an off-the-shoulder design with flowing cape-like sleeves. It also includes a cinched waist adorned with a bow detail. The gown has a fitted silhouette that accentuates the model's figure, and the rich red color adds a dramatic effect. In the background, other models and an audience are visible, indicating that this is from a fashion show.
    ©ImaxTree

One of my favorite looks is this spectacular long taupe chiffon dress embroidered at the bust with geometric motifs with floor length sleeves.

  • The image features a stylish model walking down a runway in an elegant gown. The dress is sophisticated, with intricate embellishments and a shimmering design. It has a high slit on one side, showcasing the model's leg. The gown is complemented by a flowing cape-like detail that adds drama to the look. The color palette includes soft tones that enhance the overall elegance. The model's hair and accessories are styled to match the glamour of the outfit, creating a striking presence on the runway. The background is filled with a crowd and soft lighting typical of a fashion show setting.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model wearing a stunning outfit that combines elegance and drama. The dress is a soft, neutral color with a fitted silhouette and a high slit on one side. The bodice is adorned with intricate beading and embellishments, giving it a glamorous look. Flowing, sheer cape-like sleeves extend from the shoulders, adding a sense of movement and grace. The model is also wearing a matching headpiece, which complements the overall style. The setting appears to be an outdoor area with architecture in the background, contributing to the sophisticated atmosphere.
    Photo: Clémence Martin for Orient Palms

There were breathtaking golden pieces like this long pleated iridescent chiffon dress or this beige jumpsuit sparkling with sequins and a dramatic plunging neckline.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing an elegant gown. The dress is a flowing, metallic gold color with a pleated design. It features a high neck and a long, dramatic cape that adds movement and flair. The waist is cinched with a decorative belt, enhancing the overall silhouette. The setting appears to be a fashion show, with other attendees and models visible in the background, all contributing to the glamorous atmosphere of the event.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing an elaborate outfit designed for a fashion show. The outfit is a glamorous, gold jumpsuit adorned with intricate embellishments and a deep V-neckline. The jumpsuit has unique sleeves that flow elegantly, adding to the dramatic look. The model has a natural hairstyle, and the atmosphere of the runway is vibrant, with an audience visible in the background, adding to the sense of excitement and style at the event.
    ©ImaxTree

The champagne colored jumpsuit with a Lavallière bow and feather-trimmed sleeves is an hommage to Yves Saint Laurent’s 1965 collection, a feminist breakthrough at the time, where the feminine bow echoed men’s ties.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing a stunning outfit adorned with intricate embellishments and sequins. The outfit has a cape-like design and a sheer, shimmering quality, reflecting light beautifully. The model has long, flowing hair and is wearing a natural makeup look. In the background, there are additional dresses on display, all featuring elaborate designs and fabrics, set against a colorful patterned runway. The overall atmosphere is glamorous and fashion-forward, typical of a high-end fashion show.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model wearing an ornate outfit adorned with intricate embellishments and embroidery. The garment has a high collar and flowing sleeves, with delicate feathers at the ends. The model is posing confidently, showcasing the elegant details of the dress. In the background, there are individuals capturing her look, suggesting a fashion show or photo shoot environment. The setting appears to be upscale, highlighted by decorative elements in the architecture.

This orange dress with Arabian geometric motifs and a tribal jewelry-belt, shows vintage glamour channeled by ostrich feathers framing a tight bustier and ornamenting the sleeves.

  • The image features a model walking down the runway wearing an elaborate orange gown. The dress is adorned with intricate beading and sequins, creating a shimmering effect. It has a sheer overlay, allowing glimpses of an undergarment beneath, and is complemented by voluminous, feathered details at the shoulders and wrists. The model's makeup is striking, with an emphasis on bold features, and the background includes blurred figures, suggesting a lively fashion event. Overall, the look is bold, glamorous, and theatrical.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model wearing a striking, vibrant orange gown adorned with intricate embellishments. The dress has a fitted silhouette with a high neckline and features dramatic feathered sleeves and a matching feathered collar. The waist is accentuated with a decorative belt, adding to the gown's opulence. The backdrop suggests a stylish setting, likely a fashion event, with other individuals in elegant attire in the background. The overall look is bold and glamorous, showcasing high fashion design.

Continuing on the Vintage note are these "Old Hollywood" style dresses with seductive feathers placed each time differently to highlight the silhouette.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing an elegant and intricate dress. The gown is predominantly black with elaborate floral embroidery in vibrant colors, adding a touch of drama and sophistication. It has a sheer overlay, creating a flowing effect, while one shoulder is adorned with a feather accent. The runway setting is lively, with other models and a richly decorated backdrop, enhancing the overall glamorous atmosphere of the fashion show.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, wearing an elegant, intricately designed gown. The dress is predominantly a light color, embellished with sparkly sequins and intricate patterns. It has a deep neckline and long sleeves, with a form-fitting silhouette that flares out at the bottom. The skirt is adorned with feather-like details, adding a dramatic touch to the overall look. The runway is decorated with colorful, patterned carpets, and there are spectators in the background, creating a lively atmosphere.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway showcasing an elegant evening gown. The dress is intricately designed with shimmering embellishments and features a flowing silhouette. It has a sheer, ornate overlay that adds a sense of ethereal beauty, while feathered details at the sleeves enhance its dramatic effect. The model's hair is styled in loose waves, complementing the sophisticated and glamorous look of the outfit. The background is filled with an audience, suggesting an upscale fashion event.
    ©ImaxTree

The following serie seems to come out of a "One thousand and one nights" tail: a sherwel with a neck scarf — a variation of the Lavallière bow — with a fully embroidered overcoat, and shear black and gold djellabas.

  • The image depicts a fashion model walking down a runway. She is wearing a long, flowing gown in soft, neutral tones. The dress features intricate beading and embellishments, particularly on the shoulders, giving it an elegant and luxurious appearance. The fabric looks lightweight and drapes beautifully, accentuating the model's figure. She wears a matching headscarf that adds to the overall cohesive look. The runway setting includes a beautifully patterned carpet and an audience in the background, engaged in the presentation of the clothing.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image depicts a model walking down a runway during a fashion show. She is wearing an elaborate, floor-length gown that features intricate patterns and embellishments. The dress has a sheer, flowing design with long sleeves and a cinched waist, accentuated by a black belt. The model's hair is styled elegantly, and she wears a black headpiece. The background shows other models and an audience, set against a vibrant, patterned runway. The overall atmosphere is glamorous and high-fashion.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing a striking, intricately designed dress. The dress is long and flowing, predominantly black with elaborate golden embellishments and patterns that give it a luxurious look. The model has a natural hairstyle and carries a confident pose as she walks. The runway setting is adorned with vibrant colors and textures, creating a lively atmosphere with an audience in the background.
    ©ImaxTree

Worn by the same model, these Emerald and Burgundy sheath with floor-length medieval sleeves dazzle by their embroideries, fitted form and diva-like elongated silhouettes.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway in a stunning green gown. The dress is made of sheer fabric adorned with intricate sequins and embellishments, giving it a sparkling appearance. It has long sleeves and a fitted bodice, cinched at the waist with a matching belt that includes a decorative tassel. The model's makeup is elegant, complementing the gown, and her hair is styled under a matching headscarf. The setting is a fashion runway, with other models and an audience visible in the background.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway wearing an elaborate red gown. The dress is made of sheer fabric adorned with intricate embroidery and embellishments. It has long, flowing sleeves that drape elegantly from the shoulders, creating a dramatic effect. The gown's design includes rich detailing that enhances its luxurious appearance. The runway setting is vibrant, with an interesting patterned floor and other models in the background, showcasing their own stunning outfits. The overall atmosphere is glamorous and high fashion.
    ©ImaxTree

Another one of my favorite looks is this golden embroidered dress with a paisley motif and plunging neckline. The ample short sleeves fitted at the waist borrow from both djellabas and medieval cuts.

The image features a model walking down a runway wearing an elegant, shimmering gold gown. The dress is intricately decorated with sparkling embellishments and has a deep V-neckline. It features short, flowing sleeves and a cinched waist with a decorative belt. The gown falls to the floor, creating a graceful silhouette. The runway setting is vibrant, with an audience visible in the background and colorful floor patterns, enhancing the overall atmosphere of a fashion show.
©ImaxTree

Murad revamped the ball gown silhouette by adding an overskirt to skirts in the same color, Burgundy or black, or a patchwork of various tile motifs. The amplified lower part of the dresses was counterbalanced by tight, skin-baring bustiers: a velvet burgundy cache-coeur, a black velvet bustier with shoulders knots, or an off-the-shoulders black bustier.

  • The image features a model walking down a runway in a stunning, elegant gown. The dress is predominantly deep red, with a fitted off-the-shoulder bodice that transitions into a flowing, layered skirt. The gown is adorned with intricate embellishments and sequins, adding to its luxurious appearance. The model's hair is styled elegantly, complementing the sophisticated look of the outfit. The backdrop suggests a high-fashion setting, typical of a runway show.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway during a fashion show. She is wearing a striking outfit that consists of a fitted black top paired with a voluminous skirt. The skirt is elaborate and colorful, showcasing intricate patterns in shades of red, purple, and gold. It has a high slit on one side, adding an alluring touch to the ensemble. The model's hair is styled gracefully, and she walks confidently in high-heeled shoes. In the background, other models can be seen, along with an audience observing the show. The runway has a vibrant patterned floor that complements the fashion on display.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway wearing an elaborate black gown. The dress is strapless and has intricate detailing, with embellishments and textured patterns that add depth to the design. The gown has a voluminous skirt, creating a dramatic silhouette as the model moves. In the background, there are onlookers and other attendees at a fashion show, enhancing the atmosphere of a high-fashion event.
    ©ImaxTree

There was a special glamorous modernity in mixing asymmetrical bouffant gazar trailing skirts with traditional carpet motifs and sexy short dresses or bustiers.

  • The image shows a model walking down a runway in a fashion show. She is wearing a striking dress that features a colorful, intricate pattern on the upper part, resembling embellished detailing. The dress has a fitted bodice and a short skirt, but it transitions into a dramatic, flowing black train that adds volume and movement. The model's hair is styled straight, and she is wearing strappy high-heeled sandals. The runway setting has a vibrant, patterned floor and is lined with spectators looking on.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image depicts a model walking down a runway wearing a striking, vibrant purple gown. The dress features a fitted bodice adorned with intricate embellishments, transitioning into a voluminous skirt that cascades down, creating a dramatic look. The gown has a high slit on one side, showcasing the model's legs, and it is styled with a matching headband. The setting appears to be a fashion show, with an audience visible in the background. The overall aesthetic is bold and glamorous.
    ©ImaxTree
  • The image features a model walking down a runway, showcasing a striking fashion ensemble. She wears a dramatic, floor-length gown with a deep green satin finish. The gown has a fitted bodice embellished with black detailing, and it flows into a voluminous skirt that has a high slit, revealing her leg. The model is also adorned with a matching headband, adding a touch of elegance to her look. The background suggests a fashion show environment, with an audience visible and other garments displayed in the distance.
    ©ImaxTree

The bride looked heavenly in an ivory gown showered with shimmering crystals displaying a floral carpet pattern. The silk tulle veil framing her figure and covering up her shoulders in a pleated manner created a halo of mystery and sacredness.

The image features a model walking down a runway in an opulent gown. The dress is characterized by intricate embellishments and a full, flowing silhouette, adorned with elaborate patterns. The model wears a dramatic veil that cascades behind her, adding to the grandeur of the look. The runway is set in a lavish venue, with an audience of onlookers seated and watching the presentation. The overall atmosphere is elegant and showcases high fashion.
©ImaxTree